Montmartre, the hill of martyrdom
Why Montmartre is part of this story
Denis is the first bishop of Paris. He is beheaded around 250 on a hill that will take its name from this: mons martyrum, the hill of martyrs, Montmartre. The legend — and it truly is a legend, established in the 9th century — tells that he picks up his head, washes it at a fountain, and walks north for about six kilometres before falling. The place where he falls becomes his tomb, then an abbey, then the basilica. What history confirms is that a venerated martyr’s tomb has been attested on the site since the 3rd or 4th century. The walk, however, is a tale. I explain it this way, and no other, on why Saint Denis carries his head.
Six kilometres is also, roughly, the real distance between the hill and the basilica. Visiting both in the same trip means following a legend in the right direction: you start where he lost his head and arrive where forty kings wanted to be buried near him. For it is indeed the saint’s protection that explains the necropolis, as I recount on why the kings are in Saint-Denis.
What the walk reveals
Exploring the hill on foot, between 1 hour 30 minutes and 2 hours 30 minutes depending on the option: Place du Tertre and its painters, the vineyard, the Moulin de la Galette, the Sacré-Cœur. The guide speaks English. American reviews — Ching-Yao, Sylvia, David — mention their guides, Denise and Linda, and particularly remember the stories about the streets and the artists. Wine and cheese tasting is optional. This is a neighbourhood walk, not a monument visit: you don’t enter a treasure, you walk through sloping streets. Full reviews are available in our reviews.
What works
- The highest rating in my selection, 4.7 out of 380 reviews
- The geographical starting point of the entire history of Saint-Denis
- A flexible walking tour, between 1 h 30 and 2 h 30
- Wine and cheese tasting optional
Good to know
- Guide in English
- It goes uphill: this isn’t the flattest walk in Paris
- No practical connection with the necropolis: these are two separate days
- A street walk, with no interior monument visits
If you go up to Montmartre one day and down to Saint-Denis the next, tell the children the legend in between. They’ll arrive at the portal with a question in mind, which is better than three information panels: see visiting with children.
The two halves of the same story
Today, Montmartre is a tourist hill and Saint-Denis a suburban town you pass through. Yet both share the same origin: a bishop executed in the 3rd century, a tomb, a cult. The difference is that in Saint-Denis, the tomb attracted kings for twelve hundred years, from Dagobert in 639 to Louis XVIII in 1824. If you only have time for one of the two visits, and it’s history you’re interested in, take the necropolis. Montmartre is a pleasure, Saint-Denis is an explanation.
Book the Montmartre walk
For the other end of the story, everything is gathered on the booking hub, and the key question is addressed on is it worth the detour.
Frequently asked questions
What is the connection between Montmartre and Saint-Denis?
Saint Denis was beheaded on the hill of Montmartre around 250: mons martyrum. The 9th-century legend has him walk six kilometres to the north. See why Saint Denis carries his head.
Is the walk in French?
The guide speaks English. At the basilica, however, the guided tour included in the ticket is in French: see guided tours.
Can we combine Montmartre and the basilica?
It's better to plan two days: the walk lasts up to 2 hrs 30 and involves climbing. The necropolis requires 1 hr to 2 hrs; see how much time to allow.
If I have to choose just one?
The royal necropolis, if it's history that interests you: more than 70 recumbent figures, from Dagobert to Louis XVIII. See the necropolis ticket.